Al Sunseri and the Oldest Oysters in America

Yesterday I talked to Al Sunseri, third-generation owner of P&J Oyster Company, the oldest continually operating oyster dealer in the U.S., in business since 1876 and shucking oysters in the Quarter since 1921.

We talked about the full arc of New Orleans’ oyster story—from 19th century canals to seasonal availability, to the shift in class appeal and the labor force that’s kept it running. Vietnamese workers, automation, overfishing, coastal loss, and how oysters go from bay to plate.

Al’s stories were as dense as the sacks of oysters in his cooler and as salty as the mounds of shucked shells out back.