neworleans

  • Al Sunseri and the Oldest Oysters in America

    Al Sunseri and the Oldest Oysters in America

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    by

    Wes Modes
    in

    Yesterday I talked to Al Sunseri, third-generation owner of P&J Oyster Company, the oldest continually operating oyster dealer in the U.S., in business since 1876 and shucking oysters in the Quarter since 1921. We talked about the full arc of New Orleans’ oyster story—from 19th century canals to seasonal availability, to the shift in class…

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  • Outside the Candlelight

    Outside the Candlelight

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    by

    Wes Modes
    in

    On Friday we stopped by the Candlelight Lounge after Kermit’s, but no live music at either place that night. But outside the Candlelight, there was a lively scene—JJ serving food straight from the streetside fryer, people from the neighborhood loosely gathered around, shooting the shit and getting dinner. We fell into talking to Wayne and…

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  • Under the I-10

    Under the I-10

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    by

    Wes Modes
    in

    Coming out of Kermit Ruffin’s Mother-In-Law Lounge (no live music that night), we stumbled into a full-blown sidewalk revival under the I-10. Gas burners roaring, steam billowing out of cauldrons the size of bathtubs, and Dr. Round 2—decked in scrubs, stethoscope dangling—shouting his signature holler while ladling his “Shakeback Sauce” like a man on fire.…

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  • First Night on Frenchmen

    First Night on Frenchmen

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    by

    Wes Modes
    in

    First night in New Orleans and we did what any sensible person would do—headed straight for Frenchmen Street. The brass was loud, the crowd was sweaty, and the music was everything. We caught sets at d.b.a., Spotted Cat, and Blue Nile—three flavors of New Orleans magic, from tight trad jazz to full-blast brass chaos. No…

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