fieldnotes
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The Last Second Line Before the Storm
I caught the tail end of a protest by second line organizers pushing back against proposed NOPD crackdowns on parading. Wouldn’t have known about it at all if not for my photographer buddy Sophia Germer, who mentioned she was covering it. I’d all but given up hope of seeing a second line this trip—turns out…
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What Happened in Simmesport
Well, the case has been heard and I can finally tell the full story—a tale of white supremacy, weaponized power, and small-town corruption. June 26, 2025. Simmesport, Louisiana. We tied up at an unmarked patch of riverbank. No signage. No fences. No purple paint. Just a strip of land beside the water, quiet and ordinary.…
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Finding the Delta Queen
In a weird bit of serendipity, we ran into our old friend the Delta Queen tucked away in an obscure side channel off the Intracoastal Waterway. Last time we saw her was in Chattanooga during Tennessee River fieldwork back in 2016. Now she’s looking a little sad and lonely, but still unmistakably herself.
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Word of Mouth in Houma
Great pop-up exhibition this morning in Houma, Louisiana. No museum, no press, no institution behind it—just word of mouth and the power of the socials. And yet… a couple dozen folks showed up, curious and full of stories. They packed into the little boat, asked thoughtful questions, lingered on the dock to chat. A reminder…
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The Dubuque Visit
Today’s pop-up exhibition in Houma has me thinking of past visits, especially one that’s stuck with me for nearly a decade. Back in 2015, while docked in Dubuque, Iowa, we had a visit from a big family—five kids, I think—but it was two sisters, Lexie and Gracie, who stole the show. They were so curious,…
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Summer Reading: Shanty Boat Girl
Three covers. One torrid tale.Shanty Boat Girl by Kirk Westley: my summer reading, theoretically. When we first started the project, I assumed we’d have nothing but time—while floating, while docked, between interviews and cooking. In reality, there’s barely space for pure leisure. The demands of the boat, the work, and just basic survival keep us…
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Dwayne Crawford and Bayou Chêne
Unexpectedly met Dwayne Crawford cruising by on the Intracoastal, checking his fish and crab traps.We talked about where he was born and raised—Bayou Chêne.He brought us several big catfish for dinner and, being a generous, full-service sort of fellow, even offered to fillet them for us.
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Dotty’s Mark on a Barge in Amelia
Maritime graffiti on a barge in Amelia.Not sure who left this.Looks familiar, though.Dotty, doing her best to be remembered.
