StreetFoodGospel

  • Under the I-10

    Under the I-10

    —

    by

    Wes Modes
    in

    Coming out of Kermit Ruffin’s Mother-In-Law Lounge (no live music that night), we stumbled into a full-blown sidewalk revival under the I-10. Gas burners roaring, steam billowing out of cauldrons the size of bathtubs, and Dr. Round 2—decked in scrubs, stethoscope dangling—shouting his signature holler while ladling his “Shakeback Sauce” like a man on fire.…

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